Next generation of designers in new exhibition

FOUR Manchester School of Art students’ pieces are being showcased alongside Vivienne Westwood and other world leading female fashion designers in a new exhibition.

The Fashion & Freedom exhibition at Manchester Art Gallery features work inspired by the impact of the First World War on women and fashion. Manchester School of Art’s Elizabeth Thomas, Jessica Bachmann, Joana Almagro Bustalino and Rebecca Webster represented the next generation of fashion designers in the exhibition.

The students worked on the theme of ‘Restriction / Release’, examining the two physical extremes women faced within fashion, from the pre-war tight fitted corsets (Restriction) to the soft free-flowing silhouette post war (Release).

Darrell Vydelingum, Creative Director of Fashion & Freedom, said: “When I was invited to create a project, I wanted to achieve a mix of new commissions by leading designers alongside emerging talent from fashion colleges, animated by fashion films. The exhibition shows how the silhouettes that emerged a hundred years ago are still the bedrock of our catwalks and high streets today. Fashion & Freedom is first and foremost a celebration of women – their strength, creativity and resilience.”

From ornaments to aviators

Elizabeth Thomas, BA Hons Fashion, looked at the theme of Restriction for her piece ‘An Excellent Ornament of Man’. She said: “I have long been interested in how women were subjugated by the fashions of their time… but after doing some research on late Victorian dress, I noticed that the expensive fabrics, length of dresses and the ornamentation of sleeves could be as restrictive as the sculpting underwear beneath.”

Jessica Bachmann, BA Hons Fashion, focused on the concept of restriction and the experience of the Suffragettes while referencing the contemporary artist Harald Nägeli and his abstract studies of women for her piece.

Joana Almagro Bustalino, BA Hons Fashion, said: “The inspiration behind my design ‘Women Voters: Conquer Freedom’ is Emmeline Pankhurst and the Suffragettes – a tribute to women working together to gain the right to vote.”

Rebecca Webster, BA Hons Fashion, takes inspiration for ‘Flight’ from muse Emelia Earhart, a pioneering aviator of the post-First World War period. Rebecca said: “In order to capture the sense of release following the First World War, I reflected on emptiness, and the mixed emotions women were facing as they were forced to relinquish their new found roles and responsibilities.”

Louise Adkins, Senior Lecturer in Fashion at Manchester School of Art, said: “All four of our students were given the same theme of ‘Restriction/Release’ and each student ran with it, developing vastly different and wonderful pieces that showcased the talent and creativity of our students. Through their designs, Elizabeth, Jessica, Joana and Rebecca were also able to provide a social commentary on the First World War through a contemporary lens.”

Fashion & Freedom is a free exhibition that runs until 27 November 2016 at Manchester Art Gallery. For more information visit www.fashionandfreedom.org/about/